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Winter Honey Stores Checker

Quick answer: A colony needs roughly 80–90 lbs of stored honey in the North, 50–60 lbs in the Mid-Atlantic & Midwest, and 30–40 lbs in the South to survive winter. A full deep frame holds about 9 lbs, a full medium about 5.5 lbs. Count your frames or weigh the hive below to get a feed / don’t-feed verdict.

Check a hive

Example check (6 deep + 4 medium frames, Mid region)

Estimated stores: 76 lbs (34.5 kg)

Target for Mid-Atlantic & Midwest: 50–60 lbs.

OK — well provisioned.

Stores meet or exceed the upper target. Fit mouse guards, ensure ventilation, and check weight again by hefting in midwinter.

Method: 6 full deep frame(s) × 9 lbs + 4 full medium frame(s) × 5.5 lbs. Count partially full frames as halves.

Regional winter stores targets (university extension guidance)
RegionTarget storesFull deeps equivalent
North (short season) 80–90 lbs ≈ 9–10 deep frames
Mid-Atlantic & Midwest 50–60 lbs ≈ 6–7 deep frames
South (long season) 30–40 lbs ≈ 3–4 deep frames

Verified against extension.psu.edu· Last verified: 2026-07

capped storesclusterWinter rule:the cluster eatsits way UP —never sideways.Emergency feed goeson top of the frames,right above the bees.
The winter mechanic behind every target on this page: the cluster eats its way upward through capped stores. Food below or beside the cluster may as well not exist — which is why emergency feed always goes on top of the frames.

Why colonies starve in late winter

Most winter losses blamed on cold are actually starvation — and it usually happens in February and March, not December. The cluster eats little in deep cold, but once the queen resumes laying in late winter, consumption triples: brood must be kept at 95°F around the clock. A hive that felt heavy at Thanksgiving can be empty by Valentine’s Day.

The second killer is position: the cluster moves up, not sideways, in cold weather. Bees can starve inches away from full frames on the outer walls. That is why late-fall arrangement matters — stores should be above and beside the cluster, not below it.

The checking calendar

  • Early fall (Sep–Oct): run this checker; feed 2:1 while daytime highs stay above 50°F.
  • Late fall: final weight check; fit mouse guards and ventilation.
  • Midwinter (warm day >40°F): heft the hive; if light, add fondant or dry sugar directly above the cluster.
  • Late winter (Feb–Mar): the danger window — check weight every 2–3 weeks until the first reliable nectar.

Frequently asked questions

How much honey does a hive need for winter?

It depends on winter length: roughly 80–90 lbs in the North (upper Midwest, New England, mountain states), 50–60 lbs in the Mid-Atlantic and Midwest, and 30–40 lbs in the South. These are colony-survival minimums recommended by university extension programs, not averages — running out in February kills more colonies than cold does.

How do I estimate stores without opening the hive?

Tilt-test or weigh: lift the back of the hive with a luggage scale, double the reading for an estimate of gross weight, then subtract equipment weight (roughly 65–75 lbs for a typical double-deep with frames and bees). In midwinter, a quick heft — if you can easily tip the hive with one hand, it is dangerously light — plus emergency sugar on top is safer than a full inspection.

How much does a full frame of honey weigh?

A fully capped deep frame holds about 8–10 lbs of honey (we use 9 lbs); a full medium frame holds 5–6 lbs (we use 5.5). Count both sides — a frame capped on only one side counts as half.

What if it is too cold to feed syrup?

Bees stop taking liquid syrup when daytime highs stay below about 50°F. After that, feed solid sugar instead: fondant, sugar bricks, or the mountain-camp method (dry granulated sugar on newspaper above the cluster). Details in the winter feeding guide.